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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.